Thursday, 1 August 2019

Beautiful Blackwork

Wow! We are in August already - time has flown by this year. Time to slow it down with some relaxed stitching and what better than some Beautiful Blackwork; which was the subject of our recent July workshop at Lytham St Annes Embroiderers Guild.

For those new to this type of embroidery it has a long history. Whilst it has been called Spanish Work, as it was supposed to have been brought over by Catherine of Aragon when she came to marry into the Tudor family - she having been said to have been taught by her mother Queen Isabella of Spain and the work influenced by the geometric designs of the Moors - it has been around since the time of Geoffrey Chaucer, the English Poet and Author who was born in London in 1343.



Above, is a lovely Elizabethan inspired design of Cowslips by Paula Katherine Marmor of the Blackwork Embroidery Archives. She is inspired by historical needlework of 16th and 17th Century England but all the patterns are her original ideas. Paula says that she much prefers to design the patterns on the computer, than stitch them. (As always: Please be aware of Copyright, give credit if using one of Paula's designs and only do so for personal or educational purposes. See her website if in doubt).

When all things Spanish fell out of favour due to the conflict with Spain - this type of embroidery was renamed Blackwork and can be seen in the clothes worn in portraits of nobility painted by Holbein. Hence, the Double Running Stitch used came to be known as Holbein Stitch.
With Anne of Cleves, Henry VIII's fourth wife, the designs became freer as she favoured the patterns influenced by nature that had flowers and leaves filled with geometric designs. In time, Blackwork was used on household items and metallic threads were also used. 



These two designs by Elizabeth Almond - Cameo, above and Interweave, below, use Gold Metallic thread to highlight small parts of the pattern to great effect.



It was considered dull once coloured thread was invented and did not really become popular again until the 1960s when textures and tones were emphasized more than the strict Tudor designs.



A Persian Flower design by Elizabeth Almond has been worked in Black, above, and Colour Flower in pink and lilac thread, below. The patterns look the same but the eagle eyed among you will spot the subtle changes. Find both designs and more! on her website Blackwork Journey in the Freebie section.



Elizabeth Almond has plenty of Free Patterns on her Website Blackwork Journey. (Just click on the link but please, be sure to attribute the design to her when showing others your work and not copy or pass the designs on without permission).

Today all kinds of threads are used including Variegated Threads and designs appear on all manner of articles from linens and towels to Makeup Bags and Notebooks.



The Elizabethan Cowslip design by Paula Katherine Marmor, this time worked in coloured thread and adorning a Makeup Bag.

To start off your design, fold your fabric in 4 to find the centre point and using a Waste Knot to begin with, work out from the centre using straight stitches. You can use Back Stitch or Running Stitch and go back and fill in the gaps - aka Holbein Stitch or Double Running Stitch.
The Elizabeth Almond patterns use a single strand but you can use 2 strands if you like and your work will still look wonderful.

Here as three Gorgeous Butterflies, below. These are Original Designs by Linda Bedford; our Tutor for the evening, who has a reputation for very neat, fine work.



This next piece made up of Multiple Blackwork Designs is also an Original Pattern by Linda Bedford.



One more colourful flower design by Lesley Wilkins from her book Beginners Guide to Blackwork, below, is worked in Blue and Pink variegated thread that matches the blue cover of  the notebook it decorates.



The plastic wrinkles are from the cellophane covering the Notebook.

Last but not least, I could not resist posting these wonderful Cute Critters, below. 


The stylized creatures were designed by Lesley Wilkins and appear in her book Beginners Guide to Blackwork.

Many thanks to Linda for stitching all these lovely designs and for passing on her tips and trick garnered from years of embroidery. We were able to get started on our own pattern and find out just how enjoyable it is to sit and work the embroidery known as Blackwork.




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